Monday, July 17, 2006

Exploding powerhouse

Weather cleared up for the weekend so went climbing. Was so keen to climb that I over did it a bit and now have very sore toes due to wearing my shoes too long and clipping my nails too short. Saturday got a text from Anders and met him at Myggen. He had two projects to clear out of the way, he did both and I repeated both. I think they were around the 6c to 7a mark. I also tried to onsight a route of his from last year Høvding dogfoot 7b. I couldn't work out the last move so I got the beta and had to settle for a flash. Was pleased to get it on flash since the last move wasn't easy.
When I got home had a message from Knut who was staying in Dale. He has had a very good year climbing many hard problems around the world including a couple of 8a's so I was keen to see how he foung the Haugland boulders. Well he is very strong and managed to flash slope JP and repeated the crown, he also had a look at sit down to macoun but thought it might be impossible. Watching Knut boulder I was most impressed by his explosive power on dynamic moves rather than his static strength. He could propel himself off slopers with great speed. This is how he did JP, barely touching the slopers on the way past. I think this is what I will work on next winter, explosive power. After all I was once famously described as "an exploding power house in the modern gymnastic style" so there we go.